In Australia they’re doing things a little different. Instead of using plate chillers or metal immersion chillers they use plastic to cool down the wort. And instead of the emphasis being placed on getting the wort below &&& F. as fast as possible, this method needs you to keep it near boiling hot and chill it as slow as it needs.
– tubing that can transfer boiling temperature liquid.
– an HDPE plastic container (the exact size of the batch you’re making).
– (optional) a stainless steel racking cane.
– (optional) a funnel.
Step 1 –
Mash/sparge/boil like you would any other beer. The only difference is that you will adjust your hop addition times.
This picture was found in Homebrew Talk – Exploring No Chill
Step 2 –
Drain your wort into the HDPE container. Fill it up as much as you can. You want to have as little to no air left in once it is sealed.
Step 3 –
On one side place a towel in between your knee and the plastic container. Place the other side of the container against something sturdy like a wall. Push until the excess air is out. Seal the lid.
Step 4 –
Place the now sealed “cube” in a room temperature area and let it cool on it’s own.
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So, basically what you’re doing here is killing of all of the potential threats with your initial boil. Once you create a sealed environment inside the cube it should create a vacuum where no other threats should be able to grow as it cools past the danger zone.
A compressing of the cube should occur after it has cooled. If it bulges back out some, you might have an infection.
Give the wort around 24 hours or until it gets to room temperature. Cool it down to pitching temperature and aerate it how you would your other beers. Pitch your yeast and then it’s all normal from here on out for you. Hopefully.
I was always told that you do not get a good cold break using this method but recently I’ve been hearing otherwise. Clarity on these beers really is not a problem.